Treatment of hair



Patented Apr. 18, 1939 UNITED STATES OF HAIR.

James 0. Brown, Mount Vernon,

to Ernest Frederica, No Drawing.

This invention relates to the art of permanent waving of hair. It isapplicable not only to the curling of hair and imparting to it a desiredwave .or shape, but also to the straightening of hair which is naturallycurly or kinky.

The so-called permanent waving of growing human hair has heretofore beeneifected by the use of. a relatively high degree of heat, i. e., atemperature above that which the skin or scalp is capable ofwithstanding without irritation for an appreciable period of time. Thehair is wound on rods, moistened with a hair waving compound, such asammonia or other alkalies. and heated to a temperature approaching 212F. In such a process, some form of heating apparatus is required. Afterthis heating, the hair is usually rinsed, combed into the desired shape,and dried. Such a process is called permanent waving because the hairwill retain its wave for several months.

One object of this invention is to provide; for the permanent waving orstraightening of hair without the necessity of heating the hair to hightemperatures. V dL Another object of this invention is to prev! aprocess whereby the waving action of an agent applied to the hair iseffectively stopped as soon as the desired waving or straighteningeffect has taken place. A

Other objects will be in part explained and will be apparent from thefollowing description.

The chemical composition of hair is not known with any exactness, .butit is very complex and composed chiefly of proteins containing a largeproportion of sulfur. During the ordinary process of permanent waving.some of the sulfur of 'thehairischemically removed. I The treated hairfilaments will retain any form given to them at thetime the action ofthe waving agent is effectively stopped, after they have been'subjectedto the action of these agents for a suitable period of time. One type ofsatisfactory hair waving agent is the class of soluble suliltes whichreact with the hair to take up one atom of sulfur and form thiosulfates."Alkalinematerials similarly react with the hair'to take up sulfur andeventually form thiosulfates. The intermediate reaction products in thelatter case are probably sulfides, sulfur dioxide and sulfltes. Thefollowing equations express the principle reactions Application DecemberSerial No. 115,589

(CI. 13MB) N. Y assignor Bronxvllle, N. Y.

which are believed to take place during the waving of the hair with suchmaterials.

(1) 38 (hair) +4NH4OH- 2(NH4) zS-l-SOr-i-ZHzO (2) 2NH4OH+SO2+ (N'Hi)aSOa+H2O (3) (NH4) 2SOa+S (hair) "(NI-I4) 2820:

It is thought that at least some of the sulfide formed in reaction (1)reacts with oxygen of the air and/or sulfur to form sulfltes which areeventually converted to sulfates or thlosulfates.

The hair waving action of a sulflte applied to the hair by removal ofsulfur therefrom, takes place either at room temperature or at a loweror higher temperature, the speed of the action depending upon thetemperature. Heat speeds up 20 the reaction and acts as a positivecatalyst. A soluble sulflte, however, will soften hair suiiiciently toeffect a permanent configuration at room temperatures, if allowed toremain in contact with the hair-for several hours. Alkalies similarlyhave some reaction at room temperatures but react much more slowly thansulfltes.' Apparently this slower action is due to the time required forforming ,intermediate products, to the presence of these products, andto various addition side reactions.

I have discovered that a permanent wave may be obtained without the useof any exter ally applied heat by applying a solution of a su lite, or asimilar sulfur removing agent, to hair wound on curling rods or thelike, and then effectively stopping the action of the sulfite while'thehair remains in its curled state and before it is allowed to assume adifferent configuration. This may advantageously be accomplished byrinsing the 40 hair in a dilute solution of some mild oxidizing agent,or other reagent, which will oxidize, or otherwise react with the suflteto convert it to a non-reactive material, before the hair has beenafforded an opportunity to change its configuration. oxidizing agentsare particularly suitable because they oxidize suliites to sulfates, thelatter having substantially no chemical eflect on hair.

For example, if hair is treated by the application of a sulflte, and theaction of the sulflte is m not effectively stopped before or very soonafter the hair is unwound from the curling rods, the weight of the hairwill serve to straighten out the curls because the sulfur removingaction is still continuing, and the permanent eflect will be to leavethe hair straight. By oxidizing the sulflte as soon as the hair isunwound, or before unwinding, the action of the sulflte is stopped andthe hair remains permanently in the curled form. Subsequent washing anddrying of the hair will not destroy the wave.

In time, the sulfur removing agent will be oxidized by the oxygen in theatmosphere, but this reaction is very slow and it is entirelyimpracticable to leave the hair wound upon curling rods for such alength of time as would be required to complete the oxidation of theremaining waving agent. My experiments have lead me to believe that onereason why the high temperature waving is usually effective, without asubsequent treatment with an oxidizing or similar stopping agent, isprobably due to the fact that the active sulfite is very rapidlyoxidized by atmospheric oxygen at the elevated temperature of the usualhot waving process, i. e. very much more rapidly than at roomtemperatures, or other lower temperatures. Thus, when the hair is rinsedand dried following a hot waving operation, substantially all of theactive suliite has been oxidized to sulfate. In fact, most if not all ofit is oxidized during the high temperature waving operation. A treatmentof the hair with an oxidizing agent, subsequent to the high temperaturewaving treatment would, therefore, be

- of very little, if any value.

' When hair is treatedwith a sulflte at a lower temperature, such asroom temperature, however, the rate of oxidation of sulflte byatmospheric oxygen is so slow that active sulfite remains in the hairafter 48 hours or more, and the setting, or sulfur removing action ofthe sulflte on the hair continues during this time. This sulflte cannotreadily be removed by rinsing or the like, since a large portion of itis firmly attached to, or embedded in the hair. Thus, following a lowtemperature treatment, a considerable amount of sulfite remains in thehair and continues its action for at least several days. If the hair isremoved from the curlers, or allowed to assume a different configurationwhile the sulfur removing action is continuing, the last form it assumeswill be the one permanently retained. Whether or not the foregoing isthe correct explanation of what takes place, I have discovered that thetreatment of hair with an agent which destroys the sulfur removingaction of the sulfite,

- or similar waving agent, soon after the hair has been removed from thecurlers following a low temperature treatment, is important to thesuccess and permanence of the waving operation. It will be understoodthat the invention is not to be considered as limited by reference tothe suggested theory of operation.

While I have referred particularly to the use of this process at roomtemperatures, it may be used to advantage at temperatures up to andincluding those which a person can stand without suffering pain, i. e.substantially up to a scalding temperature. The waving action is morerapid at the slightly elevated temperatures and yet at temperatures upto about 120 F., which is all that can be comfortably borne by thescalp, the oxidation of the suliite by means of the oxygen in the air isnot sumciently rapid to insure adequate removal or conversion of thesulflte in this way during the treatment period. A subsequent treatmentis therefore desirable, and in fact necessary to the production of agood permanent wave at temperatures of the character indicated. While itrequires 3 to 6 hours for hair to be waved satisfactorily at roomtemperatures by a soluble sulflte, if the hair is heated to atemperature of 120 F. the time of reaction may be reduced to 30-40minutes. i

This same principle may be applied to the straightening of curly orkinky hair. A sulfur removing agent may be applied to the hair inconjunction with some stiffening agent, such as a wax emulsioi icaselnsolution, or similar material, which iii-combed into the hair tomaintain it substantially. straight. ,At the end of the reaction period,the setting action of the sulfur removing agent is effectively stoppedby treatment with an oxidizing agent, or the like, and the stiffeningagent may be removed, leaving the hair permanently straight.

To further illustrate my invention, specific examples thereof aredescribed, although I do not wish to be limited thereto.

Hair to be permanently waved is wound upon rods in the desiredconfiguration, and moistened with a 5% aqueous oluticn of ammoniumsulflte. This moistening ma be effected by combing the solution into thehair prior to winding, by wrapping the wound hair in pads moistened withthe sulflte solution or simply dipping the wound hair in the solution.The hair is left in this condition for from 3 to 6 hours or longer,after which it is unwound and rinsed in a weak solution of hydrogenperoxide. At the end of the reaction of the waving agent, about of theammonium sulfite used will still be present in the hair. Just sufficienthydrogen peroxide should be employed to react chemically with the.residual active sulfite. In this way any appreciable bleaching effect ofthe peroxide will be avoided, Of course, if bleaching is desired, moreperoxide may be employed. The hair may then be treated in any desiredmanner, either by rinsing, setting, washing, or the like. While aconcentration of 5% of sulfite has been mentioned, any suitableconcentration may be employed, preferably within the range of l-25%.

Such a process is well adapted for home use, igvolves no heatingwhatsoever and does not inve the discomfort or expense attending the useof intricate heating apparatus.

If it is desired to speed up the process, the hair may be wound andmoistened, as described above, and heated by suitable means, such as ahair dryer or other heater, to a temperature around F. for 30-40minutes, followed by a treatment with peroxide. Any other suitableoxidizing agent may be used in place of the peroxide.

To straighten curly hair, a binding agent or stiffening agent, such asan emulsion of wax, may be combed into the hair to hold it straight. Asulfur removingagent, such as ammonium suliite, is also combed into thehair together with the binding agent. After a suitable period, say 3-6hours, of treatment with the sulfur removing agent, a solution of asuitable oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, should beapplied tothe hair to stop the action of the sulflte.

Any soluble sulflte, either organic or inorganic, may be employed forthe waving or straightening step in the process described above. Forexample, such materials as sodium, potassium or ammonium sulfltesorbisuliites, or organic reagents such as tetraethyl sulflte,aminosulfltes or ethylamine sulfltes may be employed.

I prefer, however. to use sodium or ammonium sulfltes because of theirlower cost. Other agents which exert a waving action by removing sulfurfrom the hair may also be employed, although the suliltes are preferredbecause they have a more rapid action on the hair, without beingdangerous. Any suitable oxidizing agent, or other reagent which convertsthe waving agent into a harmless substance, may also be used, althoughhydrogen peroxide is described because of its easy availability and mildaction even if an excess should be employed. Other oxidizing orarresting agents which might be used are dilute solutions of potassiumpermanganate, sodium perborate, iodine, and the like.

The term "permanent used in the foregoing specification and in theclaims, is employed in its usual sense in the art. The treatmenteffected is permanent in that it lasts for several months or until thetreated hair is replaced by new hair, as distinguishing from wavesetting which is effective for a period of only a few days or a week.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms ofdescription and not of limitation, and I have no intention. in the useof such terms and expressions, of excluding any equivalents of thefeatures shown and described or portions thereof, but recognize thatvarious modifications are possible within the scope of the inventionclaimed.

1 claim:

1. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a sulfur removing waving agent at a temperaturebelow about 120 F. for a suflicient time to permanently set the hair,and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

2. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a soluble sulfite at a temperature which does notburn the skin while maintaining the hair in the desired configuration,and thereafter treating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize theremaining sulfite.

3. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a soluble sulflte, at a temperature not higherthan about 120 F., while maintaining the hair in the desiredconfiguration, and thereafter treating the hair with a solution ofhydrogen peroxide of sufficient strength to oxidize substantially all ofthe remaining active sulfite.

4. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configurationthereto comprising adlusting -the hair in the configuration desired,treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte at atemperature which is not injurious to the scalp, and subsequentlytreating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize any remainingsulilte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to change itsconfiguration.

5. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configurationthereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired,treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte atsubstantially normal room temperatures, and subsequently oxidizing anyremaining sulflte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to changeits configuration.

6. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configurationthereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired.treating the hair while thus adjusted with an aqueous solutioncontaining about 5% of an alkali sulflte, and subsequently treating thehair with a solution containing a slight excess of hydrogen peroxideover the amount required to react with the remaining sulflte.

'1. In a method of permanent waving human hair, the steps of windingtufts of hair on mandrels, treating the hair while thus wound atsubstantially normal room temperatures with a waving agent comprising awater soluble sulilte for a sufficient period of time to permanently setthe hair, removing the hair from the mandrels, and rinsing the hair in adilute solution of an oxidizing agent.

8. In a method of straightening human hair. the steps of combing astifiening agent into the hair to maintain it substantially straight,applying a solution of a sulflte to the stiffened hair, and subsequentlyoxidizing any residual active suliite.

9. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a sulfur removing agent at a temperature belowthat which would irritate the scalp for a sufficient time to permanentlyset the hair, and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

JAMES C. BROWN.

DISCLAIMER 2,l55,178.-James C. Brown, Mount Vernon,

Disclaimer filed March 6, 1942, by the assignee,

dated April 18, 1939. E. Frederica, Inc.

N. Y. TREATMENT or HAIR. Patent Hereby enters this disclaimer to claims1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 9, of said Letters Patent.

[Ofiict'al Gazette April 7, 1942.]

I prefer, however. to use sodium or ammonium sulfltes because of theirlower cost. Other agents which exert a waving action by removing sulfurfrom the hair may also be employed, although the suliltes are preferredbecause they have a more rapid action on the hair, without beingdangerous. Any suitable oxidizing agent, or other reagent which convertsthe waving agent into a harmless substance, may also be used, althoughhydrogen peroxide is described because of its easy availability and mildaction even if an excess should be employed. Other oxidizing orarresting agents which might be used are dilute solutions of potassiumpermanganate, sodium perborate, iodine, and the like.

The term "permanent used in the foregoing specification and in theclaims, is employed in its usual sense in the art. The treatmenteffected is permanent in that it lasts for several months or until thetreated hair is replaced by new hair, as distinguishing from wavesetting which is effective for a period of only a few days or a week.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms ofdescription and not of limitation, and I have no intention. in the useof such terms and expressions, of excluding any equivalents of thefeatures shown and described or portions thereof, but recognize thatvarious modifications are possible within the scope of the inventionclaimed.

1 claim:

1. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a sulfur removing waving agent at a temperaturebelow about 120 F. for a suflicient time to permanently set the hair,and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

2. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a soluble sulfite at a temperature which does notburn the skin while maintaining the hair in the desired configuration,and thereafter treating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize theremaining sulfite.

3. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a soluble sulflte, at a temperature not higherthan about 120 F., while maintaining the hair in the desiredconfiguration, and thereafter treating the hair with a solution ofhydrogen peroxide of sufficient strength to oxidize substantially all ofthe remaining active sulfite.

4. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configurationthereto comprising adlusting -the hair in the configuration desired,treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte at atemperature which is not injurious to the scalp, and subsequentlytreating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize any remainingsulilte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to change itsconfiguration.

5. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configurationthereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired,treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte atsubstantially normal room temperatures, and subsequently oxidizing anyremaining sulflte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to changeits configuration.

6. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configurationthereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired.treating the hair while thus adjusted with an aqueous solutioncontaining about 5% of an alkali sulflte, and subsequently treating thehair with a solution containing a slight excess of hydrogen peroxideover the amount required to react with the remaining sulflte.

'1. In a method of permanent waving human hair, the steps of windingtufts of hair on mandrels, treating the hair while thus wound atsubstantially normal room temperatures with a waving agent comprising awater soluble sulilte for a sufficient period of time to permanently setthe hair, removing the hair from the mandrels, and rinsing the hair in adilute solution of an oxidizing agent.

8. In a method of straightening human hair. the steps of combing astifiening agent into the hair to maintain it substantially straight,applying a solution of a sulflte to the stiffened hair, and subsequentlyoxidizing any residual active suliite.

9. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprisingtreating the hair with a sulfur removing agent at a temperature belowthat which would irritate the scalp for a sufficient time to permanentlyset the hair, and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

JAMES C. BROWN.

DISCLAIMER 2,l55,178.-James C. Brown, Mount Vernon,

Disclaimer filed March 6, 1942, by the assignee,

dated April 18, 1939. E. Frederica, Inc.

N. Y. TREATMENT or HAIR. Patent Hereby enters this disclaimer to claims1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 9, of said Letters Patent.

[Ofiict'al Gazette April 7, 1942.]

